Rig a tripping line to your anchor before you drop the hook. Keep driving until you see the anchor ball break the surface astern.
The ball’s buoyancy combined with the boat’s pull can free a stubborn anchor. The float and ring, which serve as a pulley, will move down the rode. Snap this assembly around the anchor line and drive past the anchor at about 45 degrees. Go buy yourself an anchor-retrieval ring and buoy. What could you have done, or can you do now to prepare for the next time? Chances are that, if the water’s too cold or deep to go swimming, you’re going to end up abandoning your anchor at this point unless you’ve prepared for this eventuality in advance. Continue moving forward until the anchor breaks free. This will pull on the anchor in the direction opposite from which you originally set it.
If that doesn’t work, with the boat still directly over the anchor, cleat the anchor line at the bow and gently idle forward into the wind. By tailing the line, you can let it slip to prevent the bow being pulled under. On the crest of the next wave, the rise of the boat may free the hook. Don’t cleat it off in case you need to release the line quickly as the boat dips into a trough – and watch your fingers if it’s rough. “Tail off” the anchor line on a bow cleat, taking a turn around the base and holding taut. Here are a few tricks to save your afternoon, and possibly your anchor:įirst, pull up on the anchor line so you’re directly above the anchor. Few things can ruin a relaxing stop at your favorite anchorage like a battle to retrieve an anchor that’s stuck on the bottom and won’t come free.